Burgess bandsaw blade guides explained for older BK3 and BBS20 saws
What Burgess bandsaw blade guides are meant to do
Burgess bandsaw blade guides are the small upper and lower support assemblies that steady the blade close to the cut. On older Burgess BK3, BK3 PWS, and related BBS20-style benchtop machines, guide setup is especially important because the saws are compact, the blade path is short, and small errors in tension, tracking, or guide clearance can quickly show up as wandering cuts, scraping, or blade slip.
The basic function is straightforward: the guides support the flat body of the blade without clamping it, and they must stay clear of the teeth. The original Burgess BK3/BK3 PWS operating instructions give a useful baseline: set the upper guide close to the workpiece, keep the lower guide close to the underside of the table, position the side guide blocks so the teeth just clear their front edge, and set the rear bearing about 0.5mm to 1mm behind the back of the blade.
This guide explains the setup logic rather than assuming every old Burgess saw still has identical parts. Many surviving machines have been repaired, modified, or assembled with parts from similar models. Always compare the advice with the actual guide assembly fitted to your saw.
Start with tension and tracking before touching the guides
A common mistake is to use the blade guides to correct a problem that starts with blade tension or wheel tracking. On these saws, the side guides and rear bearing are final supports. They are not designed to force a poorly tracked blade back into line.
Before making adjustments, disconnect the machine from the power supply. If a cover has to be removed for inspection, do not run the saw with the cover off. Check that the blade is installed with the teeth pointing downward on the cutting side and forward into the work. Also inspect for missing teeth, cracks, kinks, or a welded joint that clicks or bumps as it passes through the guides.
Set blade tension and tracking according to the machine manual. The Burgess instructions describe correct tracking as the blade running centrally on the top wheel. If the blade sits too far forward or too far back on the wheel, guide adjustment becomes unreliable. Back the guide blocks and rear bearing away during this step so the blade can find its natural tracked position.
Only after the blade turns smoothly by hand should you bring the guides back toward it. Rotate the wheels manually after each adjustment. The blade should move freely without pinching, scraping, or pushing the guide assembly out of line.
How to set the upper and lower Burgess blade guides
Lower the upper guide assembly as close to the workpiece as practical while still clearing the material and allowing safe feed. This reduces the unsupported blade length and limits the amount of exposed blade above the cut. General bandsaw safety guidance from OSHA and the UK Health and Safety Executive also supports keeping the guide or guard close to the stock rather than leaving the upper assembly high above the table.
Set the side guide blocks beside the blade body, not beside the tooth set. The tooth set is wider than the blade plate. If the teeth rub the guides, the saw may cut poorly, heat the blade, strip the tooth set, or drag the blade forward. The original Burgess wording is useful here: the teeth should just clear the front edge of the two cylindrical guide blocks.
The rear support is the thrust or back bearing. It should not press on the blade while the saw is idling with no cutting load. The factory-style clearance is about 0.5mm to 1mm behind the back of the blade. During a cut, feed pressure may push the blade back so it briefly contacts the bearing. If the bearing spins constantly at idle, it is usually too far forward. If the blade can move a long way back before it is supported, the bearing is too far away.
The lower guide is easy to overlook because it sits under the table, but it is just as important. Keep it as close to the underside of the table as practical, and recheck it after tilting the table. A bevel cut changes the relationship between the table slot, blade, and lower guide, so a setting that works at 0 degrees may become too tight or poorly aligned after a tilt.
| Guide setting | Factory-style baseline | Practical check |
|---|---|---|
| Upper guide height | Close to the workpiece surface | Minimize exposed blade while leaving safe clearance |
| Lower guide position | Close to the underside of the table | Recheck after table tilt or blade changes |
| Side guide blocks | Teeth just clear the front edge | Guides support the blade body, not the tooth set |
| Rear bearing | About 0.5mm to 1mm behind the blade | No constant contact when running without load |
Troubleshooting guide-related cutting problems
If a Burgess saw will not cut straight, avoid changing one part at random. Work through the system in order: blade condition, tension, tracking, guide height, side guide clearance, rear bearing clearance, table alignment, and feed pressure.
A cut that wanders left or right can come from a dull blade, excessive feed pressure, an unsuitable blade width for the curve, or guide blocks set behind the tooth gullets. If the side guides are too far back, the tooth set may rub. If they are too far forward, the teeth may be forced sideways before they enter the work.
A scraping sound often means the blade is touching a guide block or rear bearing continuously. With the saw unplugged, turn the wheels by hand and listen for where the contact begins. Adjust in small steps. A constant metallic rub is different from the brief contact that can occur at the rear bearing under cutting load.
If the blade slips or comes off the wheels, move the guides away and revisit the basics. The Burgess manual notes that blade slip may be caused by insufficient tension or contamination on the drive surfaces. Guides cannot compensate for a greasy wheel, tired belt surface, damaged tyre, or blade that is not tracking centrally.
If the saw cuts reasonably in thin material but struggles in thicker stock, the guides may not be the cause. The BK3 manual distinguishes between higher speed for wood and soft materials and lower speed for mild steel, alloys, and thicker plastics. Feed rate also matters. Forcing the work into the blade can bend the blade back into the thrust bearing and make a correctly set guide appear wrong. See also: Tool Categories.
Repairing or upgrading older Burgess guide assemblies
Many Burgess saws still in use are old enough that factory parts may be missing, worn, or previously modified. Public owner notes for BK3 machines describe the original upper and lower guides as relatively simple side supports, often comparing them unfavorably with more modern bearing guide systems. That does not mean every saw needs an upgrade, but it explains why owners often search for replacement guide blocks, guide rods, bearings, or complete assemblies.
Before replacing parts, identify exactly what is worn. A damaged side guide block is a different fault from a loose guide post, stripped clamp screw, bent guide holder, worn rear bearing, or misaligned table insert. Replacing the visible guide block will not fix a guide assembly that twists when tightened.
Owner-built ball-bearing conversions can improve lateral blade support when they are accurately made and aligned. The risk is that an inaccurate upgrade can make the saw worse by pushing the blade off its natural line or by placing bearings too close to the teeth. Any custom guide should preserve three principles: side support must act on the blade body, rear support must sit just behind the blade, and the assembly must be rigid enough not to move under cutting pressure.
For readers comparing older tool maintenance topics, our Guides section includes more practical electric tool setup and repair coverage.
Blade choice affects guide setup
Blade width and tooth count change how forgiving the guide setup feels. A narrow blade is better for curves but is easier to deflect. A wider blade tends to track straighter but still needs enough clearance through the guides and table slot. Some current blade suppliers list 1,435mm, or 56.5 inch, blades for Burgess BK3-type machines, but they also advise checking the length printed on the old blade for Burgess BK2, BK3, and BBS20 variants. That caution is sensible because used machines may no longer be original.
Do not assume a new blade will automatically fix guide trouble. A new blade still needs correct tension, tracking, side clearance, and rear support. Likewise, a guide upgrade cannot make an inappropriate blade perform well. Match blade width to the curve or straight cut, choose tooth pitch for the material thickness, and keep enough teeth engaged to reduce grabbing or chatter.
Safety checks after adjustment
After the guide setup is complete, refit covers and guards before powered testing. Keep the upper guide close to the work, keep fingers out of the blade line, and use a push stick or suitable fixture for small pieces. Do not pull material backward out of a cut while the blade is moving; plan relief cuts for tight curves instead.
Run a short test cut in scrap material before starting the real work. Watch for blade drift, burning, vibration, and unusual noise. If the saw behaves differently under load than it did by hand, stop and recheck the rear bearing and side guide positions. A careful five-minute adjustment is faster than replacing a damaged blade or guide block.
Frequently asked questions
What clearance should the rear bearing have on a Burgess bandsaw?
The Burgess BK3/BK3 PWS manual gives a clearance of about 0.5mm to 1mm between the back of the blade and the rear bearing. It should normally support the blade under cutting load, not press on it continuously at idle.
Should the side guide blocks touch the blade?
They should sit very close to the blade body but should not clamp it. The blade must run freely. Most importantly, the teeth and their set should clear the front edge of the guide blocks so the guides do not damage the teeth or push the blade sideways.
Why does the lower guide need adjustment after tilting the table?
Tilting the table changes the working angle between the blade, table slot, and lower guide assembly. A lower guide that is correctly positioned for square cuts may rub or sit too far from the blade after a bevel setup.
Can I fit ball-bearing guides to an old Burgess saw?
Yes, some owners have made bearing-style guide conversions, especially for BK3 machines. Treat this as a precision modification rather than a universal drop-in repair. Alignment, rigidity, bearing position, and tooth clearance are more important than simply adding bearings.
Are Burgess BK3 and BBS20 blade guides interchangeable?
Do not assume interchangeability without checking the actual machine. The guide principles are similar, but old saws may differ by model, production version, and previous repairs. Measure the guide post, mounting points, blade path, and available clearance before buying or making parts.